Creating the Perfect Form How to Interpret and Display Historic Dress
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Om bidragsyterne
Janet Wood is a freelance consultant on large exhibitions in major museums and historic properties, including Chatsworth House and the Museum of London. She was previously a fashion designer working with Thea Porter, Monsoon and freelance (1971-90), and a textile conservator with Historic Royal Palaces (1992–2012).With concise language and simple visual guides, Janet Wood takes practitioners working with textiles and dress on a journey that demystifies and makes accessible effective methods for the interpretation and display of garments. Through appreciation for the fall of a sleeve, the heft of a box pleat and a rigorous analysis of underpinning, Wood deftly and creatively guides the novice (with reminders for the skilled) through garment mounting solutions, bringing clothes to life in a sympathetic way.
Dr Ben Whyman, Manager, Centre for Fashion Curation, London College of Fashion, University of the Arts London, London, UK
Full of insight and practical guidance expressed clearly and visually, I can’t imagine a museum curator with a dress collection or a conservator who works with garments who would not want this on their bookshelves.
Philip Warren, Chair of the Costume UK Costume Society, UK
Anyone who’s had the pleasure of working with Janet Wood while she brings historic clothing back to life with a light and seemingly magic touch will cheer the fact she’s now shared her expertise in a book. Janet’s decades of experience are distilled into an easy-to-use reference guide that makes her wealth of knowledge widely available. The practical skills, tips and tricks of costume mounting processes explained in <i>Creating the Perfect Form</i> make it an essential handbook for putting dress on display beautifully.
Dr Hilary Davidson, Associate Professor, Fashion Institute of Technology, New York, USA
Janet Wood has managed to skilfully combine every bit of her extensive experience as a fashion designer, pattern cutter, costume conservator and specialist historic costume mounter into one beautifully simple, invaluable book. I cannot recommend this book highly enough and would suggest every student and professional in the field has their own reference copy.
Zenzie Tinker ACR, Zenzie Tinker Conservation, Brighton, UK
A balanced approach to mounting that gives users the means to understand and work with historical dress in all settings ... This field is one that most must work in for some time to achieve a depth of understanding and experience, and Wood’s publication will be one which learners and professionals will want to accompany them in the occupation of costume mounting.
Costume
How can the cut of a 19th century gown control its shape? Can you re-create a historic profile from a contemporary mannequin? How can paintings help you analyse historic silhouettes and the corsets and petticoats worn underneath?
Conservation and historic dress display specialist Janet Wood will help you answer all these questions. You'll learn how historic garments can be safely handled and shown to best effect, with insight into the characteristic features of each piece and how to translate them from the garment to a display support.
Concentrating on Western women's wear from 1750–1950, and with over 250 colour images, plus drawings and charts, you’ll learn how to interpret an individual garment’s display needs and create safe, appropriate display forms.
Introduction
1. Assessing the Condition of a Garment
2. Date
Paintings
Cartoons
Fashion plates
Photographs
Newspapers, magazines and other literary sources
Books
Technical developments and dressmaking techniques
Fabrics
Alterations
Media
Summary
3. Garment Cut and its Relationship to Underwear
Research system
Corset timeline
18th century
1800 – 1820
1820 – 1830
1830 – 1840
1840 – 1850
1850 – 1860
1860 – 1870
1870 – 1890
1870 – 1880
1880 – 1890
1890 – 1900
1900 – 1910
1910 – 1920
1920s
1930s
1940s
1950s
Summary
4. Storyboards & Silhouettes
How to use storyboards to date a garment
Silhouette timeline
How to relate the construction of a garment to the timeline silhouettes
Summary
5. Measurements
Descriptions of the horizontal body measurements
Descriptions of the vertical body measurements
The importance of the relationship between garment measurements
Comparing garment measurements to a body, mannequin or bust form
Using a measurement chart
Tools for measuring
Tape measures and their uses
Measuring historic garments
Tips for accurate measuring
Summary
6. Selecting & Preparing a Mannequin or Bust Form
Guidelines
Bust form or mannequin
Preparing a bust form or mannequin
Tools for padding mannequins and bust forms
Applying polyester wadding
Bust form
Mannequin
Needles
Step-by-step process for customizing a bust form
Top covers
Summary
7. Patterns &Toiles
The straight grain
Locating the straight grain position on historic garments
Tools for taking a pattern from a garment
Three methods for creating patterns for toiles
Making a pattern for a toile
‘Join the dots’ method
‘Draping’ method
Tissue paper templates
Constructing the toile
Summary
8. Petticoats, Arms & Finishing Touches
Base petticoat
Base petticoat method
Net petticoats
Net petticoat method
18th century pannier petticoat
Top petticoats
Sleeve supports – Arms
Summary and finishing touches
Conclusion
Bibliography
Glossary
Garment measuring chart
Basic arm patterns
Padding diagram